The Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida, located in the centre of Madrid, boasts of having one of the most valuable pictorial collections ever painted by Goya. It may come as a surprise for the visitor to verify that in a small and austere looking ermita, which does not stand out for its beauty, a pictorial treasure is accommodated. Undoubtedly, the frescos by Goya in the ermita are a masterpiece of our art. The Aragonese genius painted them in only half a year, between the months of August and December 1789. The frescos by Goya have made this ermita an extremely valuable monument of our architectural heritage. Furthermore, in 1905 it was declared a national monument.

It is imperative that we visit it as we will be able to see, in beautiful surroundings, the pictorial work of one of the greatest geniuses of all times. We want to stress that even though the Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida does not stand out for its beauty, it has always been an important location in Madrid. This is because since 1720, very close by, the Romería de San Antonio took place. Goya was very much aware of the importance of this location for the Madrileños and that is why he painted, with great dedication, this exceptional work of art. Today, we will visit this unique ermita in our section Corners of Madrid. The previous article in this section was about Plaza de Chamberí.

UP TO THREE DIFFERENT ERMITAS

The Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida is located in the square of the same name, on the banks of the Manzanares River and very close to Príncipe Pío Station. In fact, the ermita is divided into two parts: one is dedicated exclusively to religious worship and the other part accommodates the frescos by Goya. Previously, there had been two ermitas built where this one stands. The first one of all was built by José Benito de Churriguera in 1720, and it was pulled down in 1768 due to the urban remodelling of Madrid. That same year, the second ermita was built and the plan was designed by Francesco Sabatini. However, in 1792 it was also taken apart because of a new urban remodelling plan. In 1798, the third and final ermita was constructed following the plan of the architect Filippo Fontana. This ermita, dedicated to San Antonio de Padua, is small in size and is based on a Greek cross design with a semicircular abside. Of all its elements, we can especially highlight the dome with the masterful touch of Francisco de Goya. When the ermita was finally finished, the Aragonese painter was commissioned to decorate it as he was the court painter. 

AN EXCEPTIONAL PICTORIAL SET

The Ermita de San Antonio boasts an exceptional pictorial collection. The Adoration of the Holy Trinity is represented on the dome of the abside. Goya also painted the miracles of San Antonio de Padua on this six metre in diametre dome.

One of the most striking aspects of the dome is the effect that the painting conveys of being under the open sky. Goya´s stroke of genius, with loose and impetuous brushstrokes, sometimes nearly impressionist, produce great realism and expresiveness in all the collection. 

DID YOU KNOW THAT…?

In the Ermita de San Antonio, apart from the frescos by Goya, there lies the tomb and pantheon of this brilliant painter. 

Picture 01: J. L. De Diego

Picture 02: Jl FilpoC

Picture 06: José Luis Filpo Cabana